My personal love of crochet began when I was a child and staying with my grandmother during one of the long six week school summer holiday vacations.
Although retired both Grandma and Grandad were always busy. Both were avid stamp collectors and gardeners. Grandma formally a seamstress by occupation was a lovely homely woman who could turn her hand to …well anything!
By day the house gleamed and the aromas that came from the kitchen were heavenly. In the evening there was no sitting in front of the television quietly for her, she would always be doing something. Grandma was into virtually all sorts of different types of crafts; knitting, rug making, tapestry, tatting, embroidery and of course crochet.
And being a true grandma she would encourage me to have a go myself. If I showed interest in something that she was doing then she would sit down and teach me how to do it also. And this was how my love of crochet began…
I remember on this one particular summer holiday she was crocheting a shawl. It was fabulous, the colours were simply gorgeous and I really enjoyed watching her crochet. The work grew so quickly and there was something so relaxing and therapeutic in watching her as she worked.
The next evening as we settled in front of the television she handed me a crochet hook and told me to choose a colour of yarn from her workbag. Then to my delight instead of working on her own shawl, she got out another hook and ball of yarn and started to show me step by step how to crochet.
We started with a row of chains and by the end of the evening I was well into making a large Granny Square. She was a wonderful teacher and showed me in what I think is the best way to learn anything…She formed a stitch and I copied her…And this was how I learnt to crochet.
Years on I still love the craft and have learnt many new techniques. These I have passed onto my own children and also to my husband who now shares the passion with me, and now it is something I now share with you. For my birthday that year I received a handmade crocheted shawl from my grandparents similar to the one she had been making. I still have it today along with a few other crocheted articles that she made.
Well that is how my love of crochet began – and I hope that I can pass onto you some of the tips and patterns etc that I enjoy myself. Crochet is such a versatile craft and is so wonderfully quick to do when you have mastered the basics.
I hope you find the articles useful and interesting. Should you need help or advice about your own crochet work or have any suggestions regarding articles etc then please ask…interaction and comments would be greatly appreciated.
So now I am off to get out my yarn and hook and start another project – I will write soon about my ideas and endeavours. I urge you to check out my other articles and do the same and hopefully it won’t be long before you are as hooked on crochet as I am!
Click Here to learn to crochet beautiful Afghans, baby hats, doilies, jackets, and much much more ... Quickly and Easily!!!
Showing posts with label crochet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crochet. Show all posts
Wednesday, 25 March 2009
Monday, 16 March 2009
Crochet Stitches: How to Crochet a Double Crochet with Images
To quickly and easily crochet a double crochet stitch (abbreviated to dc) in crochet patterns, do the following:
1. Insert hook into position
2. Pick up yarn, draw hook back out – 2 loops on hook.
3. Wrap yarn round hook making 3 loops and draw hook through them.
4. One Double Crochet worked.
1. Insert hook into position
2. Pick up yarn, draw hook back out – 2 loops on hook.
3. Wrap yarn round hook making 3 loops and draw hook through them.
4. One Double Crochet worked.
Wednesday, 11 March 2009
Crochet Stitches: How to Crochet a Treble Stitch with Images
To quickly and easily crochet a treble stitch (abbreviated to tr) in crochet patterns, do the following:
1. Wrap yarn round hook and insert hook into position.
2. Pick up yarn and draw back out - 3 loops on hook
3. Wrap yarn round hook - 4 loops on hook.
4. Draw hook through 2nd and 3rd loops leaving you with just 2 loops on your hook.
5. Wrap yarn round hook again and draw through remaining loops.
1. Wrap yarn round hook and insert hook into position.
2. Pick up yarn and draw back out - 3 loops on hook
3. Wrap yarn round hook - 4 loops on hook.
4. Draw hook through 2nd and 3rd loops leaving you with just 2 loops on your hook.
5. Wrap yarn round hook again and draw through remaining loops.
Thursday, 26 February 2009
Crochet: How to Read Filet Crochet Patterns
Filet crochet patterns are usually found in graph format, similar to cross stitch graphs and intarsia knitting instructions. These graphs are extremely easy to read. However for the beginner to crochet and Filet crochet in particular, these crochet patterns can pose difficulties as they do not usually have written instructions with them. Without prior knowledge of these tips and pointers a beginner may end up with a piece of filet crocheting which does not look anything like the desired image.
Let us take as an example a filet pattern grid consisting of 10 rows, with each row consisting of 10 squares. These rows are made up of both open (white) and filled (black) squares and it is these squares that represent the stitches of the mesh pattern. And it is using a combination of these open and closed squares that we can produce any image, text or pattern.
Along the sides of the filet grid you will find row numbers. This numbering begins at the bottom of the pattern and goes upwards, with alternative row numbers appearing on each side of the grid. So you will find even row numbers on one side and odd numbers on the opposite side of the filet grid pattern.
When commencing a pattern we always begin working at row 1 which
99% of the time can be found at the bottom of the grid. Now if row 1 is on the right hand side of the pattern we will be reading this row from right to left. We will obviously finish crocheting the first row on the opposite side to which we started reading, in this case the left. And it is on this left side where we will begin to read the second row from and we will then read from left to right across the row.
Consequently we will then begin the third row as we did for the first reading from right to left. We will keep alternating for each row as we proceed up the pattern. As filet crochet patterns are rarely symmetrical, it is important to read the row from the correct side of the grid each time or our pattern will not look like the desired image.
In order to understand what each of the squares of the grid mean we need to interpret them in terms of crochet stitches. So we need to view our 10x10 grid as 100 separate squares, and it is these individual squares that will tell you how to complete the image.
If we think of a typical square, then we all aware that it is made up of two sides, a top, a bottom and middle. No matter what type of square we are looking at, open or closed, long or high, it will always have some form of sides. In filet crochet the sides of our square are always reproduced as treble stitches. However the top, bottom and middle of the square will differ, dependant upon what we are looking at.
To commence our crocheted image we always begin our crocheted filet project with a row of chain stitches, called a foundation row. All the rest of the grid rows are built up from this initial foundation row. Consequently it is this first row of chain stitches that forms the bottom line of our grid. This means that we can ignore the bottoms of our squares across the whole row and concentrate solely on the squares sides, tops and middles.
After crocheting a row the tops the stitches formed will become the bottom of the next rows squares, so the bottom of all square formation can be ignored.
To calculate how many chain stitches are needed for the foundation row of a pattern, simply count how many squares there are in the first row of the pattern, then double this number and add 1 more. Hence for our pattern: 10 squares × 2 + 1 = 21 chain stitches needed for our foundation row.
Closed or filled in squares which are all black in colour represent: ‘three treble stitches’ all worked one after the other. The first treble represents the right side of the square; the second treble the middle and the third, the left side of the square. When crocheted no gaps are seen and the pattern looks solid.
An empty, open or white square represents ‘one treble stitch, then one chain stitch followed by a treble stitch worked into the second stitch from the hook.’
The trebles form the outside edges of the square and the chain stitch is its top.
When crocheted a gap is seen in the work which looks like a small square.
However we must remember that these squares are joined at the edges; in other words they touch each other or overlap at the sides. This means that they share the side treble stitches – never the middle treble. The exception to this is the first and last square of each row. These squares only share only one side each as they have nothing attached at the ends.
Subsequently we can think of our squares as consisting only of two stitches, the middle and the end. As each end is also the following squares beginning, the beginning stitch can be ignored, except at the beginning of each row.
To begin the first row of pattern we always commence rows with chain stitches, just as in ordinary crochet, so remember to start the row with 3 chain stitches to represent the first treble stitch of that row. Then treble into the next chain stitch for a closed square or into the third treble for an open square. Continue following the grid and crocheting either open or closed squares across the row. When completed turn your work.
To begin the second row of the pattern we must now remember to read the pattern from the opposite direction to which we read the first row. Begin the row again with 3 chains (to represent the edge of the first square) and proceed as before following the pattern across the row square by square, always remembering that each square shares its sides with the next.
Hopefully now you can see how we build up the rows in our filet pattern. Our third row is worked into the top of the trebles, or into the empty squares of the row below, never into the chain stitches making up the empty squares of the rows below. Continue to follow rows until you come to the end of the grid.
The majority of filet crochet patterns only use open and closed squares. Sometimes however to give a slightly different look you will see a few other types of stitches included. Here is a brief summary of some of the more usual ones.
Lacet Stitch: This stitch is worked over four squares, on two rows. The upper two squares (worked last as we work upwards) are made up of 1 treble for the side, 3 chains for the top and 1 treble for opposite side. On the second row we have 1 treble again for the side, 2 chains, and a slip stitch into the 2nd stitch from the hook, followed by 2 chains for the curved v pattern and 1 treble into the second stitch from the hook to complete the side.
Rectangle Stitch: This stitch is worked over two squares. Its side is a treble stitch, its top is 3 chain stitches and the opposite side consists of 1 treble worked into the 4th stitch from the hook.
Square Stitch: This stitch is worked over four squares, and over two rows. The lower two squares are made up of a treble for the side, 7 chains for the upper sides and top, followed by 1 treble to close the square. The upper two squares are made up of 5 slip stitches into the 2nd – 6th chain stitches.
Click Here to learn to crochet beautiful Afghans, baby hats, doilies, jackets, and much much more ... Quickly and Easily!!!
Let us take as an example a filet pattern grid consisting of 10 rows, with each row consisting of 10 squares. These rows are made up of both open (white) and filled (black) squares and it is these squares that represent the stitches of the mesh pattern. And it is using a combination of these open and closed squares that we can produce any image, text or pattern.
Along the sides of the filet grid you will find row numbers. This numbering begins at the bottom of the pattern and goes upwards, with alternative row numbers appearing on each side of the grid. So you will find even row numbers on one side and odd numbers on the opposite side of the filet grid pattern.
When commencing a pattern we always begin working at row 1 which
99% of the time can be found at the bottom of the grid. Now if row 1 is on the right hand side of the pattern we will be reading this row from right to left. We will obviously finish crocheting the first row on the opposite side to which we started reading, in this case the left. And it is on this left side where we will begin to read the second row from and we will then read from left to right across the row.
Consequently we will then begin the third row as we did for the first reading from right to left. We will keep alternating for each row as we proceed up the pattern. As filet crochet patterns are rarely symmetrical, it is important to read the row from the correct side of the grid each time or our pattern will not look like the desired image.
In order to understand what each of the squares of the grid mean we need to interpret them in terms of crochet stitches. So we need to view our 10x10 grid as 100 separate squares, and it is these individual squares that will tell you how to complete the image.
If we think of a typical square, then we all aware that it is made up of two sides, a top, a bottom and middle. No matter what type of square we are looking at, open or closed, long or high, it will always have some form of sides. In filet crochet the sides of our square are always reproduced as treble stitches. However the top, bottom and middle of the square will differ, dependant upon what we are looking at.
To commence our crocheted image we always begin our crocheted filet project with a row of chain stitches, called a foundation row. All the rest of the grid rows are built up from this initial foundation row. Consequently it is this first row of chain stitches that forms the bottom line of our grid. This means that we can ignore the bottoms of our squares across the whole row and concentrate solely on the squares sides, tops and middles.
After crocheting a row the tops the stitches formed will become the bottom of the next rows squares, so the bottom of all square formation can be ignored.
To calculate how many chain stitches are needed for the foundation row of a pattern, simply count how many squares there are in the first row of the pattern, then double this number and add 1 more. Hence for our pattern: 10 squares × 2 + 1 = 21 chain stitches needed for our foundation row.
Closed or filled in squares which are all black in colour represent: ‘three treble stitches’ all worked one after the other. The first treble represents the right side of the square; the second treble the middle and the third, the left side of the square. When crocheted no gaps are seen and the pattern looks solid.
An empty, open or white square represents ‘one treble stitch, then one chain stitch followed by a treble stitch worked into the second stitch from the hook.’
The trebles form the outside edges of the square and the chain stitch is its top.
When crocheted a gap is seen in the work which looks like a small square.
However we must remember that these squares are joined at the edges; in other words they touch each other or overlap at the sides. This means that they share the side treble stitches – never the middle treble. The exception to this is the first and last square of each row. These squares only share only one side each as they have nothing attached at the ends.
Subsequently we can think of our squares as consisting only of two stitches, the middle and the end. As each end is also the following squares beginning, the beginning stitch can be ignored, except at the beginning of each row.
To begin the first row of pattern we always commence rows with chain stitches, just as in ordinary crochet, so remember to start the row with 3 chain stitches to represent the first treble stitch of that row. Then treble into the next chain stitch for a closed square or into the third treble for an open square. Continue following the grid and crocheting either open or closed squares across the row. When completed turn your work.
To begin the second row of the pattern we must now remember to read the pattern from the opposite direction to which we read the first row. Begin the row again with 3 chains (to represent the edge of the first square) and proceed as before following the pattern across the row square by square, always remembering that each square shares its sides with the next.
Hopefully now you can see how we build up the rows in our filet pattern. Our third row is worked into the top of the trebles, or into the empty squares of the row below, never into the chain stitches making up the empty squares of the rows below. Continue to follow rows until you come to the end of the grid.
The majority of filet crochet patterns only use open and closed squares. Sometimes however to give a slightly different look you will see a few other types of stitches included. Here is a brief summary of some of the more usual ones.
Lacet Stitch: This stitch is worked over four squares, on two rows. The upper two squares (worked last as we work upwards) are made up of 1 treble for the side, 3 chains for the top and 1 treble for opposite side. On the second row we have 1 treble again for the side, 2 chains, and a slip stitch into the 2nd stitch from the hook, followed by 2 chains for the curved v pattern and 1 treble into the second stitch from the hook to complete the side.
Rectangle Stitch: This stitch is worked over two squares. Its side is a treble stitch, its top is 3 chain stitches and the opposite side consists of 1 treble worked into the 4th stitch from the hook.
Square Stitch: This stitch is worked over four squares, and over two rows. The lower two squares are made up of a treble for the side, 7 chains for the upper sides and top, followed by 1 treble to close the square. The upper two squares are made up of 5 slip stitches into the 2nd – 6th chain stitches.
Click Here to learn to crochet beautiful Afghans, baby hats, doilies, jackets, and much much more ... Quickly and Easily!!!
Thursday, 19 February 2009
Eight More Crochet Tips
Once you begin crocheting and have mastered the basic stitches there is always little problems that crop up inhibiting your progress and ruining the finish of your work. By following these crocheting tips you will ensure a neater and more even finish to your work each and every time you crochet.
Tip 1: Not enough space when working in the round.
Sometimes when working in the round there does not seem as if there is enough space to work all of the appropriate stitches into the centre ring. If you have this problem DO NOT work over the top of the previously worked stitches, instead do the following:
1. Enlarge the last loop on your hook and remove the hook from your work.
2. Starting at the beginning of the round gently push your stitches up together creating a space at the end of the round.
3. Re-insert your hook, tighten the loop and continue crocheting.
4. Repeat this process until you have finished the round.
Tip 2: Unexpected holes in your work or stretched stitches.
Sometimes you may find that you have a few holes in your crocheting that should not be there, or that some of the stitches seem to have stretched as the next row seems to be pulling them. The reason for this is usually simple; you are not crocheting into the correct part of the stitch in the previous row.
To rectify this always ensure that after inserting your hook into the stitch on the row below that you have gone through both loops of the stitch, unless the pattern tells you otherwise, as in loopy holey patterns.
Tip 3: Split Stitches.
Should you notice a split stitch, don’t just leave it. This makes your work look very unsightly as it leaves little parts of stitches across the pattern, which are very noticeable and detracts from the true crochet pattern. The time it takes to rectify these split stitches will be well rewarded in having work look neat and tidy.
Should you find a split stitch remove your hook from your crocheting, undo everything up to and including the split stitch, reinsert your hook and recommence crocheting again. It really is worth the extra effort!
Tip 4: Finding it hard to crochet into the foundation row.
The first row of any crochet project is always the hardest. It can be very difficult to crochet into a line of chain stitches especially if you are using thin yarn and a small hook!
If you are finding it hard to crochet the first row, try crocheting the foundation row with a hook one size larger than the one required for the pattern. This will make the chain foundation row a little looser and the stitches a little larger. This will not show on the end result but will aid you when trying to insert your normal hook into the correct part of your many chain stitches.
Tip 5: Crocheting beginning to curl.
If you find when working the straight line technique that your work is beginning to curl after working the first couple of rows, it is due to your tension. You have crocheted the foundation row tighter than you have crocheted the rest of the pattern. To solve this you have two options:
1. Use a hook one size larger to crochet the foundation row than the hook required to crochet the pattern.
2. Use the same sized hook but make your work (foundation row) a lot looser.
Tip 6: Trouble seeing where you should be crocheting.
When first learning to crochet it can be difficult to see exactly what part of the stitch you should be crocheting into, especially if you use dark coloured yarn. So when first learning to crochet use light coloured yarns and threads, which makes the stitches so much easier to see. Progress onto darker colours as your knowledge and confidence grows.
Tip 7: Losing stitches.
Counting your stitches is one of the most important tips to crocheting successfully. It is also one of the most common problems to find that after crocheting a row you have less stitches than the pattern says you should have, or with which you started with if not following a crochet pattern. The very most common mistake is to lose stitches at the beginning and/or ends of rows. This is due to omitting working in the first or last stitch of a row. So if you find yourself in this position check your beginnings and ends of your rows before looking at the body of the row itself!
Tip 8: Rectangular work tapering inwards or outwards.
This problem follows on from the one above and is due to either increasing or decreasing stitches without realising it! You should count your stitches regularly to ensure that you have not missed any out or inadvertently increased any. Again losing or adding stitches at the beginning or end of garments is the most common error and should be checked before preceding to check the body of the row.
Hopefully some of these tips will be useful with your next crochet project. Just keeping these pointers in mind next time you pick up your crochet hook will in itself help your crocheting to look more professional and neat.
Tip 1: Not enough space when working in the round.
Sometimes when working in the round there does not seem as if there is enough space to work all of the appropriate stitches into the centre ring. If you have this problem DO NOT work over the top of the previously worked stitches, instead do the following:
1. Enlarge the last loop on your hook and remove the hook from your work.
2. Starting at the beginning of the round gently push your stitches up together creating a space at the end of the round.
3. Re-insert your hook, tighten the loop and continue crocheting.
4. Repeat this process until you have finished the round.
Tip 2: Unexpected holes in your work or stretched stitches.
Sometimes you may find that you have a few holes in your crocheting that should not be there, or that some of the stitches seem to have stretched as the next row seems to be pulling them. The reason for this is usually simple; you are not crocheting into the correct part of the stitch in the previous row.
To rectify this always ensure that after inserting your hook into the stitch on the row below that you have gone through both loops of the stitch, unless the pattern tells you otherwise, as in loopy holey patterns.
Tip 3: Split Stitches.
Should you notice a split stitch, don’t just leave it. This makes your work look very unsightly as it leaves little parts of stitches across the pattern, which are very noticeable and detracts from the true crochet pattern. The time it takes to rectify these split stitches will be well rewarded in having work look neat and tidy.
Should you find a split stitch remove your hook from your crocheting, undo everything up to and including the split stitch, reinsert your hook and recommence crocheting again. It really is worth the extra effort!
Tip 4: Finding it hard to crochet into the foundation row.
The first row of any crochet project is always the hardest. It can be very difficult to crochet into a line of chain stitches especially if you are using thin yarn and a small hook!
If you are finding it hard to crochet the first row, try crocheting the foundation row with a hook one size larger than the one required for the pattern. This will make the chain foundation row a little looser and the stitches a little larger. This will not show on the end result but will aid you when trying to insert your normal hook into the correct part of your many chain stitches.
Tip 5: Crocheting beginning to curl.
If you find when working the straight line technique that your work is beginning to curl after working the first couple of rows, it is due to your tension. You have crocheted the foundation row tighter than you have crocheted the rest of the pattern. To solve this you have two options:
1. Use a hook one size larger to crochet the foundation row than the hook required to crochet the pattern.
2. Use the same sized hook but make your work (foundation row) a lot looser.
Tip 6: Trouble seeing where you should be crocheting.
When first learning to crochet it can be difficult to see exactly what part of the stitch you should be crocheting into, especially if you use dark coloured yarn. So when first learning to crochet use light coloured yarns and threads, which makes the stitches so much easier to see. Progress onto darker colours as your knowledge and confidence grows.
Tip 7: Losing stitches.
Counting your stitches is one of the most important tips to crocheting successfully. It is also one of the most common problems to find that after crocheting a row you have less stitches than the pattern says you should have, or with which you started with if not following a crochet pattern. The very most common mistake is to lose stitches at the beginning and/or ends of rows. This is due to omitting working in the first or last stitch of a row. So if you find yourself in this position check your beginnings and ends of your rows before looking at the body of the row itself!
Tip 8: Rectangular work tapering inwards or outwards.
This problem follows on from the one above and is due to either increasing or decreasing stitches without realising it! You should count your stitches regularly to ensure that you have not missed any out or inadvertently increased any. Again losing or adding stitches at the beginning or end of garments is the most common error and should be checked before preceding to check the body of the row.
Hopefully some of these tips will be useful with your next crochet project. Just keeping these pointers in mind next time you pick up your crochet hook will in itself help your crocheting to look more professional and neat.
Wednesday, 18 February 2009
Seven Important Crochet Tips to Remember
We all know the saying ‘Practice makes Perfect.’ In crochet you will find that this is very true, however it does not take too much practice to make your stitches perfect. Enjoy your crochet and follow these easy tips for pure crocheting success.
Tip 1: When first learning to crochet the whole process will feel very strange, as you will have to hold the hook, yarn and work all at the same time as you try to create the various crochet stitches. But work at it, practice the stitch until it feels natural, this will not take long. A great idea for practicing the basic stitches is to start making up a load of individual Granny squares (or one huge square) to get use to naturally and easily moving the hook. Also at the end you can sew them together and have a cozy blanket.
Tip 2: As you crochet, the yarn is guided through your fingers, this is what actually creates the tension of your work and therefore determines how tight – or not - your crochet stitching is!
If you look at a crochet hook you will see that it tapers inwards as it gets closer to the actual hook, therefore it has differing thicknesses. The further away from the hook itself the thicker it becomes. Therefore if you allow your loops to go up the shaft of the hook then your loops will be larger, and hence work will be looser. If you work near the hook itself, your loops will be smaller; and the smaller the loops the tighter the stitches. So if you find yourself working along the hook shaft and not near the hook, bring the loops down towards the hook and give the yarn another pull to tighten the loops, so that they decrease in size.
Sometimes it is necessary to tighten your stitches even more. To do this just pull your crochet yarn again at the end of the stitch just formed.
Crochet tension is important in most crocheting projects especially for clothing. Tension dictates the size of the finished garment. The tighter you crochet, the thinner the yarn and the smaller the hook, the smaller the end project will be and vice versa. So always check your crocheting tension against the pattern to ensure that the finished item will be of the correct fit. Alternatively begin crocheting with something where tension is not so important such as a mat, shawl or
Tip 3: When making project items where tension is vital, always take the time to prepare a practice swatch. This added time at the beginning of a project will save you time and heartache later. (Practice swatch instructions are always included in the patterns where they are applicable.) Practice swatches are just practice pieces of crochet using the hook and yarn that the garment will be made from. Patterns tell you how many stitches and rows should equal a certain length and width.
Remember you do not have to use the same yarn or the same size hook as instructed in crochet patterns. Adjusting the sizes of your crochet hook when you tension is too tight or too loose for the individual crochet pattern, will alter the finished projects size. Just be wary that if you use a different thickness yarn or a different size hook, check tension by crocheting a practice swatch to double check sizes. This is only really important when making any crocheting clothing garments.
Tip 4: Relax and enjoy your crochet, it really will show in your work. Do not hold your hook or yarn too tightly, nor too loosely. Look back at your stitches and ensure that they are all of the same size. Try to allow your crochet hook to move freely and tighten the yarn automatically after you finish each crochet stitch.
Tip 5: Hold your work at all times. Your thumb and forefinger should be holding your crocheting just below where you are stitching.
Tip 6: When joining new balls of yarn always do so at a chain stitch and try to ensure if straight line crocheting that it is at the end of a row, as this makes it easier to weave in the yarn ends. This will also give a more professional finish.
Tip 7: Crocheting with fun fur is not easy, due to its many eyelashes. For a beginner this is not at all easy, as these eyelashes make it very difficult to actually see your crocheted stitches. If you cannot see your stitches, correctly positioning your hook into the back and front of stitches is extremely hard work and can be extremely frustrating. It is therefore very easy to go wrong.
By adding a second ball of yarn of a different type (any type without eyelashes) to the fun fur and crocheting with a strand of each yarn at the same time, you will make your stitches much more visible, making the work much easier to handle. This will make your yarn and therefore work much thicker, so ensure if making a clothing garment that this will still fit and adjust hook sizes appropriately.
Crochet Together
If like me you hate sewing then one of the most tedious tasks after crocheting up a new garment has to be the joining of the seams.
However that is one reason why I love crochet – its versatility. You see if you can crochet you don’t need to sew your pieces together ever again.
It is possible when attaching pieces together to choose a method of joining from either sewing or crocheting. If sewing pieces together you can either use an ordinary over-lock method or backstitch. If you decide to crochet the pieces together then you have another two choices; a slip stitch seam or a double crochet seam.
Crocheting pieces means that the finished seam becomes part of the pattern as it makes a ridge effect, which can look great in certain types of pattern. Or you can choose to make the seam hardly seen at all.
As you can imagine these four different methods all give different finished effects – so vary in suitability depending on what you are making. The four techniques are listed below, along with a look at the overall effect it gives to the finished garment.
Technique One: Sewing Together Using Backstitch.
Place items on top of each other with the wrong sides facing outwards. Using a tapestry needle and matching yarn, insert underneath top of the end stitches, working back stitch across the garment.
This leaves a ridge on the wrong side, so work has a tendency not to lie flat.
Technique Two: Sewing Together Using Over-stitch.
Lay work wrong sides uppermost, side by side, then insert a tapestry needle with matching yarn into the back of the end stitch and across to the front of the other garment. Ensuring you do not pull too tight.
Here the work fits together leaving a very real pattern. The back of the work is more even and so work lies flat easily.
Technique Three: Crocheting Together with a Double Crochet Seam.
Using a crochet hook and yarn work a row of double crochet stitches through both parts of the stitch, evenly spacing stitches.
If you join with the right sides together you will make a traditional seam at the back of the work. Joining with wrong sides together means that your seam will be visible from he front of the work.
Technique Four: Crocheting Together with a Slip Stitch Seam.
Using a crochet hook and yarn work a row of slip stitches through both parts of the stitch. Ensure you space your stitches evenly.
The effects are similar to technique four - with the exception that the ridge is slightly thinner. So if ridge is at the back then it leaves you with less of a seam.
So as you can see there are choices to be made even after you have finished crocheting up your garment. Always remember the overall look of any finished piece can be enhanced or ruined by the finishing process. So it makes sense to get used to using all of the techniques mentioned above.
It can make a huge difference!
However that is one reason why I love crochet – its versatility. You see if you can crochet you don’t need to sew your pieces together ever again.
It is possible when attaching pieces together to choose a method of joining from either sewing or crocheting. If sewing pieces together you can either use an ordinary over-lock method or backstitch. If you decide to crochet the pieces together then you have another two choices; a slip stitch seam or a double crochet seam.
Crocheting pieces means that the finished seam becomes part of the pattern as it makes a ridge effect, which can look great in certain types of pattern. Or you can choose to make the seam hardly seen at all.
As you can imagine these four different methods all give different finished effects – so vary in suitability depending on what you are making. The four techniques are listed below, along with a look at the overall effect it gives to the finished garment.
Technique One: Sewing Together Using Backstitch.
Place items on top of each other with the wrong sides facing outwards. Using a tapestry needle and matching yarn, insert underneath top of the end stitches, working back stitch across the garment.
This leaves a ridge on the wrong side, so work has a tendency not to lie flat.
Technique Two: Sewing Together Using Over-stitch.
Lay work wrong sides uppermost, side by side, then insert a tapestry needle with matching yarn into the back of the end stitch and across to the front of the other garment. Ensuring you do not pull too tight.
Here the work fits together leaving a very real pattern. The back of the work is more even and so work lies flat easily.
Technique Three: Crocheting Together with a Double Crochet Seam.
Using a crochet hook and yarn work a row of double crochet stitches through both parts of the stitch, evenly spacing stitches.
If you join with the right sides together you will make a traditional seam at the back of the work. Joining with wrong sides together means that your seam will be visible from he front of the work.
Technique Four: Crocheting Together with a Slip Stitch Seam.
Using a crochet hook and yarn work a row of slip stitches through both parts of the stitch. Ensure you space your stitches evenly.
The effects are similar to technique four - with the exception that the ridge is slightly thinner. So if ridge is at the back then it leaves you with less of a seam.
So as you can see there are choices to be made even after you have finished crocheting up your garment. Always remember the overall look of any finished piece can be enhanced or ruined by the finishing process. So it makes sense to get used to using all of the techniques mentioned above.
It can make a huge difference!
Crochet Choice
Crochet has finally come into fashion. Go shopping and it will not be long before you find crocheted bags, shoes, clothes and coats and don't be too surprised to stumble across crocheted swimsuits or flip flops.
Crochet has not been this popular for a very long time. But when we use the word crochet, what do we actually mean? The Encarta English Dictionary states that crochet is: ‘a form of needlework used to make clothes or decorative items from wool or thread, by looping it through itself with a special hooked needle crochet hook.’ However this description only briefly scratches the surface.
Crochet work is obviously made up of many forms of stitches all formed as already said with a crochet hook. These stitches come in many different forms we have our basic stitches including chains, double crochet, the treble family and slip stitches, we also have variations on these stitches. We can work in their fronts, backs into both, or even between these stitches, producing different stitch variations and looks each time.
By slightly altering what we do with these basic stitches and where we work into them we can produce different types of patterns in our work, giving our garments different effects. These effects can be textured, looped, lacy, shell like or clustered in appearance.
When crocheting we have a choice either to work in a straight line and produce work that is straight in appearance, with straight edges, or in the round, producing circular garments. Obviously we can also increase and decrease in our garments giving us total control on the finished shapes produced.
Probably one of the most well known items made using crochet is the Granny Square. This is a square motif crocheted up in the round, used for blankets and cushions etc. and highly suited for beginners. There are many patterns for crocheted motifs both square – known as blocks and circular in shape – known as rosettes.
Crochet itself has more than one form. We can crochet as we have described above and make ourselves a vast array of garments for both the home and our family or we can use a variation to this technique.
We could crochet using more than one colour of yarn; also it is possible just as in knitting to produce pictures in our crochet work called jacquards, by following a colour chart.
Tunisian Crochet is another form of crocheting. The hook used is slightly different to a traditional crochet hook as it has a knob on the end and is more uniform in shape, similar to a knitting needle with a hook on the end.
If you have ever seen crochet work that has the appearance of lace then you would probably have been looking at Irish Crochet. Motifs are usually made for decoration for garments rather than as separate garments themselves. The most common motifs consist of flowers and leaves. Irish Crochet is extremely pretty but is probably not a good place to start when learning to crochet as it can be rather fiddly.
One of the least known adaptations of crochet has to be Overlay Meshes. You start by crocheting up a grid similar to the one used in rug making. Then to finish you either crochet up the grid in vertical lines or sew up them instead with a tapestry needle. Each technique provides you with a different appearance.
The mesh grid we were talking about above brings me to the most common of crochet techniques, Filet Crochet. The grid consists of both empty and filled squares set out in a pattern which can produce some very stunning and detailed pictures.
Crochet is a rather versatile craft which produces so many variations in form depending on the techniques and types used. It is also a really rewarding craft, is quick, easy and fun to do.
There should never be any worries about running out of ideas of what to crochet next, the main problem with crochet is what shall I make first?
Crochet has not been this popular for a very long time. But when we use the word crochet, what do we actually mean? The Encarta English Dictionary states that crochet is: ‘a form of needlework used to make clothes or decorative items from wool or thread, by looping it through itself with a special hooked needle crochet hook.’ However this description only briefly scratches the surface.
Crochet work is obviously made up of many forms of stitches all formed as already said with a crochet hook. These stitches come in many different forms we have our basic stitches including chains, double crochet, the treble family and slip stitches, we also have variations on these stitches. We can work in their fronts, backs into both, or even between these stitches, producing different stitch variations and looks each time.
By slightly altering what we do with these basic stitches and where we work into them we can produce different types of patterns in our work, giving our garments different effects. These effects can be textured, looped, lacy, shell like or clustered in appearance.
When crocheting we have a choice either to work in a straight line and produce work that is straight in appearance, with straight edges, or in the round, producing circular garments. Obviously we can also increase and decrease in our garments giving us total control on the finished shapes produced.
Probably one of the most well known items made using crochet is the Granny Square. This is a square motif crocheted up in the round, used for blankets and cushions etc. and highly suited for beginners. There are many patterns for crocheted motifs both square – known as blocks and circular in shape – known as rosettes.
Crochet itself has more than one form. We can crochet as we have described above and make ourselves a vast array of garments for both the home and our family or we can use a variation to this technique.
We could crochet using more than one colour of yarn; also it is possible just as in knitting to produce pictures in our crochet work called jacquards, by following a colour chart.
Tunisian Crochet is another form of crocheting. The hook used is slightly different to a traditional crochet hook as it has a knob on the end and is more uniform in shape, similar to a knitting needle with a hook on the end.
If you have ever seen crochet work that has the appearance of lace then you would probably have been looking at Irish Crochet. Motifs are usually made for decoration for garments rather than as separate garments themselves. The most common motifs consist of flowers and leaves. Irish Crochet is extremely pretty but is probably not a good place to start when learning to crochet as it can be rather fiddly.
One of the least known adaptations of crochet has to be Overlay Meshes. You start by crocheting up a grid similar to the one used in rug making. Then to finish you either crochet up the grid in vertical lines or sew up them instead with a tapestry needle. Each technique provides you with a different appearance.
The mesh grid we were talking about above brings me to the most common of crochet techniques, Filet Crochet. The grid consists of both empty and filled squares set out in a pattern which can produce some very stunning and detailed pictures.
Crochet is a rather versatile craft which produces so many variations in form depending on the techniques and types used. It is also a really rewarding craft, is quick, easy and fun to do.
There should never be any worries about running out of ideas of what to crochet next, the main problem with crochet is what shall I make first?
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