Crochet: How to Read Filet Crochet Patterns

Filet crochet patterns are usually found in graph format, similar to cross stitch graphs and intarsia knitting instructions. These graphs are extremely easy to read. However for the beginner to crochet and Filet crochet in particular, these crochet patterns can pose difficulties as they do not usually have written instructions with them. Without prior knowledge of these tips and pointers a beginner may end up with a piece of filet crocheting which does not look anything like the desired image.

Let us take as an example a filet pattern grid consisting of 10 rows, with each row consisting of 10 squares. These rows are made up of both open (white) and filled (black) squares and it is these squares that represent the stitches of the mesh pattern. And it is using a combination of these open and closed squares that we can produce any image, text or pattern.

Along the sides of the filet grid you will find row numbers. This numbering begins at the bottom of the pattern and goes upwards, with alternative row numbers appearing on each side of the grid. So you will find even row numbers on one side and odd numbers on the opposite side of the filet grid pattern.

When commencing a pattern we always begin working at row 1 which
99% of the time can be found at the bottom of the grid. Now if row 1 is on the right hand side of the pattern we will be reading this row from right to left. We will obviously finish crocheting the first row on the opposite side to which we started reading, in this case the left. And it is on this left side where we will begin to read the second row from and we will then read from left to right across the row.

Consequently we will then begin the third row as we did for the first reading from right to left. We will keep alternating for each row as we proceed up the pattern. As filet crochet patterns are rarely symmetrical, it is important to read the row from the correct side of the grid each time or our pattern will not look like the desired image.

In order to understand what each of the squares of the grid mean we need to interpret them in terms of crochet stitches. So we need to view our 10x10 grid as 100 separate squares, and it is these individual squares that will tell you how to complete the image.

If we think of a typical square, then we all aware that it is made up of two sides, a top, a bottom and middle. No matter what type of square we are looking at, open or closed, long or high, it will always have some form of sides. In filet crochet the sides of our square are always reproduced as treble stitches. However the top, bottom and middle of the square will differ, dependant upon what we are looking at.

To commence our crocheted image we always begin our crocheted filet project with a row of chain stitches, called a foundation row. All the rest of the grid rows are built up from this initial foundation row. Consequently it is this first row of chain stitches that forms the bottom line of our grid. This means that we can ignore the bottoms of our squares across the whole row and concentrate solely on the squares sides, tops and middles.

After crocheting a row the tops the stitches formed will become the bottom of the next rows squares, so the bottom of all square formation can be ignored.

To calculate how many chain stitches are needed for the foundation row of a pattern, simply count how many squares there are in the first row of the pattern, then double this number and add 1 more. Hence for our pattern: 10 squares × 2 + 1 = 21 chain stitches needed for our foundation row.

Closed or filled in squares which are all black in colour represent: ‘three treble stitches’ all worked one after the other. The first treble represents the right side of the square; the second treble the middle and the third, the left side of the square. When crocheted no gaps are seen and the pattern looks solid.

An empty, open or white square represents ‘one treble stitch, then one chain stitch followed by a treble stitch worked into the second stitch from the hook.’
The trebles form the outside edges of the square and the chain stitch is its top.
When crocheted a gap is seen in the work which looks like a small square.

However we must remember that these squares are joined at the edges; in other words they touch each other or overlap at the sides. This means that they share the side treble stitches – never the middle treble. The exception to this is the first and last square of each row. These squares only share only one side each as they have nothing attached at the ends.

Subsequently we can think of our squares as consisting only of two stitches, the middle and the end. As each end is also the following squares beginning, the beginning stitch can be ignored, except at the beginning of each row.

To begin the first row of pattern we always commence rows with chain stitches, just as in ordinary crochet, so remember to start the row with 3 chain stitches to represent the first treble stitch of that row. Then treble into the next chain stitch for a closed square or into the third treble for an open square. Continue following the grid and crocheting either open or closed squares across the row. When completed turn your work.

To begin the second row of the pattern we must now remember to read the pattern from the opposite direction to which we read the first row. Begin the row again with 3 chains (to represent the edge of the first square) and proceed as before following the pattern across the row square by square, always remembering that each square shares its sides with the next.

Hopefully now you can see how we build up the rows in our filet pattern. Our third row is worked into the top of the trebles, or into the empty squares of the row below, never into the chain stitches making up the empty squares of the rows below. Continue to follow rows until you come to the end of the grid.

The majority of filet crochet patterns only use open and closed squares. Sometimes however to give a slightly different look you will see a few other types of stitches included. Here is a brief summary of some of the more usual ones.

Lacet Stitch: This stitch is worked over four squares, on two rows. The upper two squares (worked last as we work upwards) are made up of 1 treble for the side, 3 chains for the top and 1 treble for opposite side. On the second row we have 1 treble again for the side, 2 chains, and a slip stitch into the 2nd stitch from the hook, followed by 2 chains for the curved v pattern and 1 treble into the second stitch from the hook to complete the side.

Rectangle Stitch: This stitch is worked over two squares. Its side is a treble stitch, its top is 3 chain stitches and the opposite side consists of 1 treble worked into the 4th stitch from the hook.

Square Stitch: This stitch is worked over four squares, and over two rows. The lower two squares are made up of a treble for the side, 7 chains for the upper sides and top, followed by 1 treble to close the square. The upper two squares are made up of 5 slip stitches into the 2nd – 6th chain stitches.

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